Paper Types for Printing: A Designer’s Guide
Choosing among paper types is one of the highest-leverage decisions in print: the stock determines how your colors sit, how the piece feels in hand, and whether your finishes work at all. This designer’s guide breaks down coated versus uncoated, cover versus text weight, and the gsm-to-pound conversions that trip everyone up — so you can spec a job with confidence instead of guesswork.
Stock is the foundation under every finish in our complete guide to print finishing. If you are planning foil, embossing, or spot UV, the right paper choice is what makes them land — read that pillar alongside this one.
Coated vs uncoated paper
The first decision is surface. Coated paper has a clay or polymer layer that seals the surface, holding ink on top for sharp detail and vivid, saturated color. It comes in three sheens:
- Gloss — high shine, punchy color, best for photo-heavy work like brochures and magazines.
- Silk (satin) — a soft sheen between gloss and matte; rich color with less glare, very versatile.
- Matte — low sheen, easy to read, elegant; the ideal base for spot UV contrast.
Uncoated paper has no sealing layer, so ink soaks slightly into the fibers. Colors look softer and more muted, the surface is tactile and writable, and it feels natural and premium. Uncoated (and cotton) stock is the best canvas for foil and embossing because the matte texture makes those finishes pop.
| Property | Coated | Uncoated |
|---|---|---|
| Color vibrancy | High, saturated | Softer, muted |
| Detail/sharpness | Crisp | Slightly absorbed |
| Writability | Poor (ink sits on top) | Excellent |
| Best finishes | Spot UV, gloss varnish | Foil, embossing, letterpress |
| Feel | Smooth, sleek | Natural, tactile |
Cover vs text weight
Paper is sold in two broad weight families. Text weight is the thinner, foldable stock used for letterheads, flyers, brochure interiors, and book pages. Cover weight (also called card or board) is the thick, rigid stock used for business cards, postcards, folder covers, and packaging. The same brand of paper often comes in both families, so you can match a cover and its text interior.
A practical rule: if it needs to stand up on its own or survive handling, use cover weight; if it needs to fold flat or bind, use text weight. Anything that will be embossed or foil-stamped generally wants a heavier cover weight so the relief and die pressure form cleanly — see embossing and debossing explained for why thickness matters there.
Understanding paper weight: gsm vs lb
Weight is where confusion peaks. gsm (grams per square meter) is the clear, universal metric — it measures the actual weight of one square meter of the paper, so a higher gsm is always heavier regardless of paper type. The US pound (lb) system is messier because it depends on the “basis size” of the paper category, which differs between text and cover stock. That is why “80lb text” and “80lb cover” are completely different thicknesses.
Because of that ambiguity, prefer gsm when you can. Here are common rough conversions and typical uses:
| gsm | Approx. lb | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 90–120gsm | ~24–32lb text / ~60–80lb text | Letterhead, copy paper |
| 130–170gsm | ~90–115lb text | Flyers, brochures, posters |
| 200–250gsm | ~74–92lb cover | Postcards, light cards, folders |
| 300–400gsm | ~110–148lb cover | Business cards, premium cards, packaging |
Treat the pound figures as approximate — they shift slightly by paper line. The gsm column is the reliable one.
Matching stock to common projects
- Business cards — 300–400gsm cover. Uncoated or cotton if you plan foil/emboss; matte coated if you want spot UV.
- Flyers and brochures — 130–170gsm text. Silk coated balances color and readability; heavier text for upscale brochures.
- Postcards — 250–350gsm cover so they survive mailing.
- Letterheads — 90–120gsm uncoated so they feed through printers and accept pen.
- Packaging and folders — 300gsm+ cover, often with a laminate; confirm die-cut and crease behavior (see die cutting in print design explained).
Specialty and textured stocks
Beyond standard coated and uncoated sheets, a range of specialty stocks adds character — and changes how finishes behave. Cotton paper (made from cotton rather than wood pulp) is soft, thick, and luxurious; it is the classic choice for letterpress, foil, and embossing because it takes deep relief and makes shine pop. Textured stocks — linen, felt, laid, and hammered finishes — carry a visible surface pattern that adds a tactile, traditional feel, though heavy texture can interfere with fine spot UV registration and crisp foil edges, so test first.
Other options worth knowing: recycled and kraft stocks signal sustainability and have a warm, natural tone that shifts your colors; pearlescent and metallic papers carry a built-in shimmer that can stand in for foil on a budget; and synthetic (waterproof) stocks suit menus, tags, and outdoor use. Each behaves differently on press, so always request a sample and a finish test before committing a full run to a specialty sheet.
How to request samples and proofs
Never spec a stock from a screen. Order a paper swatch book from your printer or paper merchant so you can feel weight, brightness, and texture in hand. For color-critical or finish-heavy jobs, ask for a printed proof on the actual stock — coated and uncoated render the same CMYK values very differently, and a proof catches surprises before you commit to the run. When finishes are involved, request a sample showing how foil, emboss, or spot UV sits on your chosen sheet. A few days spent proofing saves an expensive reprint.
Other stock factors worth checking
Beyond surface and weight, a few attributes affect the final result:
- Brightness and shade — papers range from bright blue-white to warm cream; the base tone shifts how your colors read.
- Opacity — thin or low-opacity stock shows show-through on double-sided pieces; bump weight or opacity for duplex jobs.
- Recycled and specialty — recycled, cotton, and textured stocks add character but can shift color and may need finish testing.
- Grain direction — for folding and binding, grain should run parallel to the fold/spine to avoid cracking.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between coated and uncoated paper?
Coated paper has a sealing layer that keeps ink on the surface for sharp, vivid color and a smooth feel, ideal for photos and spot UV. Uncoated paper has no coating, so ink soaks in slightly for a softer, tactile, writable result that suits foil, embossing, and letterpress.
What does gsm mean for paper?
gsm stands for grams per square meter and measures the actual weight of one square meter of paper. It is a universal, unambiguous metric, so a higher gsm is always heavier regardless of paper type — unlike the US pound system, which varies by the paper category’s basis size.
What weight paper should I use for business cards?
Business cards are typically printed on 300–400gsm cover stock so they feel substantial and resist bending. Choose uncoated or cotton stock if you plan foil stamping or embossing, or a matte-coated stock if you want spot UV contrast. Lighter weights feel flimsy and read as low quality.
What is the difference between cover and text weight?
Text weight is thinner, foldable stock for letterheads, flyers, and book interiors, while cover weight is thick, rigid stock for business cards, postcards, and packaging. As a rule, use cover weight when a piece must stand up or survive handling, and text weight when it must fold or bind.
How do I convert lb to gsm for paper?
There is no single conversion because pound ratings depend on the paper’s basis size, which differs between text and cover stock. As a rough guide, 80lb text is about 120gsm and 100lb cover is about 270gsm. When precision matters, ask the printer for the gsm value directly.
